We work with a handful of careful selected nurseries across Scotland and the South of England to provide our customers with a wide variety of plants, hedges, bulbs and gardening accessories and equipment.

Some plants are seasonal, and therefore we allow our customers to pre-order them in order to secure the quantities they require. As an example, the bare root and root ball season runs from November to March - so we open up our pre-ordering ahead of this time to ensure our customers are not disappointed by lack of stock.

Planting densities and spacing can seem a little daunting - but it really needn’t be. Where possible we’ve added ‘per meter’ option on our products - allowing you to automatically add enough plants to cover the area you need.  But a general rule of thumb is to look at the eventual mature width of the plant, and ensure you have this space between each of  the plants.

We like to say the best time of year to plant any type of plant is within the dormant season- here in the UK, this season runs from November-March. Though you can plant potted plants at any time of the year, the plants will require much more care and attention regarding watering, feeding, and weeding etc. during the hotter months.

Autumn is one of the best times to plant larger hedges/trees/shrubs as it gives the plants the best chance to establish their root systems and soak in nutrients/water over winter. Though people like to say spring is the very best time to plant, we still like to recommend autumn as the weather is cooler and wetter, meaning the maintenance side of things will be much easier. As well as this, you even get the chance to help pollinators who are struggling to find food!

A good strategy for planting in autumn is by picking out your plants at the same time as your bulbs. This way you'll get them to your front door at the same time and are able to do your gardening all at once (or over a few days!). As well as this, you wont have the same struggle with weeds in autumn, as you would in spring- you can quite often clear the site a week or so before you plant! The weeds are dormant, and therefore won't take over your site before you've even got to the planting stage.

We'd just like to note that most plants will go dormant during autumn and winter, except evergreens that never go fully dormant. This will mean that the root systems on your plant will not be growing much new roots, exactly, but will instead build up lots of energy to help them flourish during the warmer months!

With that all being said, spring is still a good time to plant, and so is summer (for container grow plants). If you're not ready to plant until spring/summer, it's not a problem- just ensure you give your plants plenty of attention. Water the plants well and fertilise/feed them regularly.

As we all know, plants are living things that need water, light, and air to survive. It's usually recommended you get the plants out of their packaging and into the ground/new pots as soon as you can. Simply, the quicker you can do it, the better. However, we understand that is not always possible- especially when you're working with larger areas, or when the weather is not suitable.

With that in mind, we're happy to recommend some short-term measures that can ensure you give your plants the best care until you're ready to get them planted.

Pot Grown Plants

After you have removed their outer packaging, you can leave the plants in their pots for days or weeks until you're ready to plant- that's the beauty of potted plants. Just make sure you keep them well-watered, sheltered, and they get enough sun to maximise their potential.

Bare Root Plants

Bare root plants must be planted within a few days upon delivery. You cannot leave them any longer than this, as the roots are rather fragile and need to be given protection and nutrients as soon as possible.

With that being said, should the plants need to wait a couple of days, you must ensure you remove the plants from their box/pallet, and place the roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to dampen them. Once you've done this, put the bare roots into plastic bags and store in a dry, cool place for up to two days- i.e., in a garage or shed.

Though it isn't recommended, you can protect your plants if they can't be planted within a few days. This method is known as heeling. It involves digging a big hole (in a free area of the garden), that's big enough to hold the entire root system, and then placing your bare roots in at a 45-degree angle, and gently filling and firming the soil around them. Though the plants will be happy like this for up to a few weeks, they'll always be much happier in their permanent space- plus, it would mean much less work for yourself!

Root Ball Plants

Root balls will usually come with a hessian sack, or some sort of bio-degradable material, surrounding their root mass. This wrapping does not need to be removed and can stay on when planted.

If you're not able to plant your root balls straight away, remove them from their boxes or pallets and store in a dry, cool place- ensuring you keep the plants well-watered and away from any harsh, cold weather (i.e., frost). However, as much as this is possible, we highly recommend planting your root ball plants as soon as you can for the very best chance at success!

As rhododendrons and azaleas come from the same family, often people are confused about the differences between each one. There's no ultimate way to distinguish azaleas from rhododendrons, but each has its own characteristics that help us to tell them apart, in which then can help you decide on which one is for you...

Evergreen/deciduous: First off, rhododendrons are evergreen, and azaleas are deciduous. This means rhododendrons will cling onto their leaves throughout the whole year, whereas azaleas will drop their foliage every autumn. There is only one evergreen azalea type to look out for, and this is known as the Japanese azalea.

How big they grow: Rhododendrons tend to be quite large specimens with longer stems, and produce plenty of large flower clusters that fill out the plant. Azaleas, on the other hand, are a much smaller version of rhododendrons- they're more like a shrub.

Foliage: Azalea leaves are quite small and narrow, with hairy undersides. Rhododendrons, on the other side, produce larger, oval, smooth leaves that often have little dots on the undersides.

Flowers: Rhododendron flowers are big and bell-shaped, in large clusters all over the bush. Azaleas are more tubular-shaped, and much smaller in size. One thing to note is that they both bloom in spring, so it's not possible to tell the difference this way.

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Having a garden that's faced with harsh, cold winds can be a huge challenge. But it doesn't mean you can't enjoy a stunning garden with beautiful plants like the rest of us! Here's some of our top recommendations for gardens facing such harsh conditions:

Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea'

Berberis Darwinii,

Gorse

Butterfly Bush

Oleaster

Euonymus fortunei Emerald n Gold

Green Privet

English Yew

Rhododendrons are perfect for shady spots or growing at the edge of a woodland- though they do well in full sun and partial shade, too. Just ensure they're placed in acidic soil and are given plenty of water and mulch.

It's important to note that you can only grow rhododendrons if you have neutral-acidic soil. Test the pH of your soil using a test kit, if you're not sure.

There are many benefits to planting mixed native hedging, with what it can provide for wildlife and the way it can adapt to the country's weather conditions/surroundings. However, many people believe that native hedging must include a mixture of species, but that's not the case. Though having a mixed native hedge is beneficial, it is possible to stick to one specie. It will still have the same benefits (i.e., like being able to tolerate certain conditions specifically found in that country), but it just may not have as many features as it would if you were to plant a mixture.

Bare root plants are those with their roots exposed. So instead of pulling your plant from a container you will unwrap, soak and plant. These plants are often ‘dormant’ and are only able to be planted within the bare root season which typically runs from November to March.

Find out more >>

Bare root plants are cheaper, due the reduction in materials to plant, they are also lighter so shipping costs are smaller. In addition the bare root variety of plants have stronger wider root systems. You can find out more about the benefits of bare root plants in our guide.

We open up pre-ordering for bare root plants early, so that we can ensure our customers have access to exactly the plants they want - and the quantities they require. With this in mind you can expect our pre-order system to go live approximately mid-July of each year, well ahead of November-March planting season.

We have a guide on how to plant bare root plants here - but it’s a simple four-step process of preparing the plant, the area, planting and firming and after-care.

Root Ball plants are similar to Bare Root  - they too are lifted from the soil with their root intact.

Root Balls are supplied to you covered in a biodegradable hessian bag. This hessian material is left on the rootball and planted - as it will decompose naturally. The time period for root ball is different to bare root - root ball plants are available from late October - April. They must be planted before Spring arrives to ensure successful transplantation.  We typically begin our pre-orders for Root ball in July each year to ensure customers have access to the plants they require.

Find out more >>

To put it simply, yes. The hessian sack is indeed, bio-degradable, and will therefore disintegrate naturally as time goes on. Don't worry, it won't damage the environment.

It's actually very important you leave the hessian sack on when planting, as it holds the root system together and provides ultimate protection once they've been planted. You can see it as a way of slowly introducing the roots to their new surroundings and soil, giving them the best chance to establish and develop.

Typically 45-60cm away from the wall for most traditional hedging - though some taller plant varieties may need more - if you’re unsure what spacing is needed for your specific hedge type , get in touch: hello@glenmoredirect.co.uk

Yes, we do! Read our most popular guide on 'How To Plant a Hedge.'

We have a whole advice section you can find here. Here you’ll find all you need to know to get started and more. We’re always expanding our guides so be sure to sign-up to our newsletter to receive regular content from us.

We hope that the above has covered some of the questions you may have, but If there’s something we’ve missed, let us know you can message us on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter or email us at hello@glenmoredirect.co.uk

The best time to plant your trees is between October and April. This is because it's the dormant season, and the weather is cool (meaning much less maintenance for yourself). It's important to note that you should avoid planting in frozen or waterlogged soil, as this can damage the plant's roots upon planting.

Though pot grown plants can be planted at any time of the year, each season has its weather conditions that need to be considered before going ahead with it. However, in general, all plants are easier to plant during autumn or winter as they don't need anywhere near as much watering as they would during summer.

Find out how to plant your trees >>

Depending on how dense you're wanting your screen to be, the number of rows you need can vary. However, in terms of how far apart you should space your plants, stick to a maximum length of 18" (45cm). This will ensure the best success at creating an impenetrable screen.

To get your hedge to fill in quicker, we recommend taking these following three steps:

1. Water the plants for the first 1-2 years, regularly. Once your plants have been in the ground for a few years, they will need very little watering as the roots have been established and had a chance to grow deep (being able to reach nutrients and water themselves). However, for the first 1-2 years after being planted, they will need a lot of water to grow effectively and fill in fast. It will give them what they need to produce and speed up new growth.

2. Fertilise with a slow-release, high-nitrogen fertiliser. It's best to apply this in the spring, just before new growth begins coming through. This will give the plant the ultimate strength and nutrients it needs to grow well/fill in quicker.

3. Be sure to prune at the right times. Yearly pruning may sound like the wrong thing to do when you're wanting the hedge to fill in quickly, but in fact, pruning stimulates new growth which therefore will help your hedge to build up its structure much quicker. The best time to prune is at the beginning of spring.

As great as RootGrow sounds, we're often confused as to how much the plants need.

Now, not to get technical, but the best way we can answer this question is by providing you with our guide to RootGrow. This guide includes tables with the number of plants each packet of RootGrow will cover, and how these numbers change depending on the size of the plant and root type you have chosen (pot grown/bare root). It will show you exactly how much you'll need to cover the amount of plants you've got.

Find out everything you need to know about RootGrow >>

There are many potential reasons behind the yellowing of your plant's leaves, however, here are some of the most common reasons:

Lack of sunlight

Plants rely on how much sun they get each day, and if they're facing a lack of sunlight, this may be quite a big part of the problem. If you know you're giving the plant enough water, and the soil does not feel dry when you check it, then it may be time to move your plant around- try placing closer to the window, or into a room than gets much more light than others.

Dehydration vs. waterlogged

The most common reason for leaves turning yellow is because of too little or too much water. However, as easy as it's to say that's the problem, it can be rather tricky to understand whether you're overwatering or underwatering your plant. One little trick in telling the difference is by looking closely at the leaves. If they're drooping slightly and seem rather limp, this is likely to be a sign of overwatering. Contrarily, if they're curling up a little and seem crispy, you've probably not been watering your plant enough.

However, sometimes it's not about how much you're watering, and instead the water is not getting to the roots effectively. This can then lead to us gardeners presuming we're not giving them enough water, and then watering so much it ends up becoming waterlogged. In this case, we recommend improving the plant's soil drainage by moving the plant to a raised bed or mixing in some sand into the soil.

Pest problems

If the leaves on your plants are not only yellow, but have holes/parts of the leaves are munched off, it's likely that you have a pest eating away at your plant. One way to get rid of these pests immediately, without damaging the plant, is by using insecticidal soap.

It's none of the above, so why are my leaves still turning yellow?

If you've already considered all the above, and everything you try doesn't seem to make any difference, it's probably time to dig a bit deeper and look closer at the leaves.

Often, leaves will turn yellow because of some sort of fungus or disease they have become a victim of. Some of the most common diseases include leaf spot or blight. Leaf spot is rather contagious and will spread rapidly- if you notice the disease early on, dispose of any infected leaves immediately, and continue to do so. The plant will eventually recover naturally.

Another very common problem is the possibility that the plant is missing some nutrients. The three most important nutrients every plant needs is nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Secondary nutrients include magnesium, sulphur, and calcium. Many of these nutrients can be found in composts or fertilisers which you can then apply to the soil of your plants. We also recommend adding organic matter, like grass clippings, to the soil- these include some of the other nutrients plants require in small amounts (i.e., copper/iron/boron/zinc etc.).

With that being said, the best thing you can do is to get your soil tested for any missing nutrients- and if there are any missing, ensure you mix in some sort of compost or fertiliser etc. that will help balance these nutrients out.

If you discover holes in your leaves, this is usually a sign of pests rather than a disease, which will often lead to spots or the leaves dropping altogether.

Holes are initially caused by little insects munching away at the leaves- i.e., caterpillars. Try looking on the underside of the leaves and see if you can spot any insects or signs they've been there. Caterpillars, for instance, will leave little green pellets behind, whereas slugs will leave a shiny trail.

Ensure you select the correct treatment. Pick of caterpillars by hand and drop them into soapy water. Slugs and snails can be treated with a commercial product, or you can just pick them off at night by hand if you prefer!

With time, pests will disappear off on their own, and you don't need to do much to get rid of them. Over time, your plant will recover and a few munched holes will not stop your plant from growing well. However, should you feel your plant needs it, using methods like the above is always a good way to solve the problem.

Weeds are a gardener's nightmare. Without control, they can take over your space before you know it. However, believe it or not, all weeds can be controlled- without weed killers!

Annual weeds are those that only live for a year. Ephemeral weeds will live for less than a year. Both types are much easier to control than deep-rooted, as their roots are shallow and are easier to pull out by hand. However, they do spread much easier and will reappear much quicker, requiring more maintenance.

Deep-rooted weeds are perennials that die off in the winter but re-grow each spring. They are very difficult to supress as they will only come back up if the tops are pulled of, and not the roots.

When to control weeds:

Weeds should be controlled whenever they're being a problem- this is usually during spring/summer. It's probably best to put weed barriers and matting down at the end of winter or beginning of spring, as this will provide ultimate protection and suppression.

How to control weeds without chemicals:

There are several ways you can remove weeds without having to buy or use loads of chemicals (that are usually not very good for the environment!). Some of these methods include:

1. Hoeing- run a hoe over the soil to kill weed seedlings.

2. Hand-pulling/use a fork- pull up annual weeds by hand. Try digging up the roots of perennials, to prevent them coming up again.

3. Repeated cutting- with large areas, repeated cutting down to ground level over a few years will either dramatically weaken or kill of some weeds completely. This is usually best done with a strimmer, or something of the sort.

4. Weed knife- used to get rid of weeds between paving slabs etc. It's a useful tool with a little hook on the end.

5. Using weed barriers- try adding mulch to the base of your plants to help suppress them as much as possible.

6. Lay out weed-suppressant fabrics.

Mossy lawns can become a huge problem if they're not controlled. Most people tend to apply a moss killer immediately, then wait a few weeks before taking it away. However, this is not always the best idea...

When you apply moss killer, it will never get rid of every single bit on your lawn- often because some parts of the moss have grown too deep for the treatment to kill it off all the way, and then when you rake it, this live moss spreads to other parts of the garden!

So, the best way to sort this is by raking the moss out first. Though you will not get it all, you're now able to apply the moss killer to a much thinner layer of miss- therefore making the treatment much more effective, with it being able to penetrate properly.

Hydrangeas are one of the most beautiful, flowering plants out there. Their stunning, large clusters of flowers are mighty popular amongst many gardens...but it's definitely frustrating when your hydrangea bush doesn't flower. You were looking forward to seeing a stunning display of colour in your garden, only to be disappointed when you don't see the flower buds appear.

Well, there's two main possible reasons this could be happening:

1. The hydrangea you've chosen isn't suited to your garden/area- it's important to check which hydrangea types suit your region, and to ensure they will be able to grow and establish to their full potential (and be successful in producing flowers!).

2. You've pruned it too hard the year before- this is quite a common problem that people face, as hydrangeas tend to grow quite large, and they then get chopped back to far to try keep them under control. This ends up in the plant not having enough strength to produce blooms and will instead die off much earlier than normal. However, this is fixable. Just stick to pruning in early spring, and next year you'll see the flowers come back again!

The best and easiest way to trim your conifer hedge is by using a hedge-trimmer- especially if you have quite a length of hedging to deal with.

Quick-growing hedges, like Leylandii, will need up to 3 trims per growing season.

Slower growing hedges can get away with one trim per year, depending on how neat you like your garden to look. One thing you must ensure you do is to ensure you inspect your hedge for any nesting birds etc., before you begin trimming- you don't want to damage any nests or birds!

How to prune your conifer hedge

1. Push some bamboo canes into the hedge to mark the top. Tie some string between the canes to mark a straight edge, and ensure it's pulled tight.

2. Begin by trimming the top of the hedge horizontally. Use the string as a guide and be sure to wear protective gloves/goggles.

3. Once you've done the top, clip the sides, holding the trimmer vertically and making long sweeping strokes. This will leave a lovely, even finish- just what you're looking for!

4. Finish off by removing the canes and string, before then using the trimmer to tidy up edges at the top, and any other little uneven spots you can see.

5. And that's it! If your hedge is fast-growing, you can trim again after 8 weeks.

According to the RHS, Lavender should be pruned annually at the end of Summer (just after it's finished flowering), to keep it healthy and looking tidy. If left to do their own thing, Lavender can end up becoming rather woody, so to keep it under control, it's highly recommended you give it a prune every year.

Please ensure you don't cut back into the woody stems on Lavender, as new growth will not be able to come through easily.

When it comes to moving established plants, it's best to stick to specific times, as it can become rather risky.

Evergreen plants: The best time to move any established evergreen plant is from October, outside of the plant's growing seasons, or at the very beginning of spring (late March), when the soil is just starting to warm up.

Deciduous plants: Ensure you move any of your deciduous plants during the dormant season- here in the UK, that runs from November-March. This is the best time to do so, as the plants are "sleeping" and will not get shocked when they're moved suddenly from one place to another.

Any formative pruning should be carried out during winter or early spring, when the plant is dormant. This is to ensure new growth will not be susceptible to harsh conditions.

However, in terms of maintenance pruning, you may need to do this 2-3 times a year to keep it looking neat. Generally, maintenance trimming is carried out during spring and summer.

Often it can be difficult to discover which plants will give you the best colour and interest you want for a particular season. That's why we're here to give you some fantastic ideas for creating the perfect autumn garden...

1. Cotoneasters

2. Dogwood

3. Euonymus Europaeus

4. Crab Apple

5. Berberis

6. Rowan

7. Viburnum tinus 'Eve Price'

8. Pyracantha

9. English Yew

10. Autumn Crocus Bulbs

It can be somewhat difficult to find plants that will give you colour and interest during winter- especially plants that flower! So that's why we're here to give you some fantastic ideas for creating the perfect winter garden...

1. English Holly

2. Orange Stemmed Dogwood

3. Viburnum tinus 'Eve Price'

4. Carex Evergold

5. Pyracantha

6. Snowdrops

7. Irish Ivy

8. Evergreens!

Often it can be difficult to discover the right plants to provide you with colour and interest for a particular season. Here's some fantastic plants to help create a stunning spring garden...

1. Burkwood Osmanthus

2. Pieris Forest Flame

3. Californian Lilac

4. Guelder Rose

5. Wayfaring Tree

6. Dog Rose

7. Gorse

8. Escallonia

9. Brachyglottis Sunshine

Though we say some plants can tolerate certain types of difficult soil, sometimes even these plants can struggle to grow in such heavy, wet, or light soil. With that being said, the best way to improve any type of soil is to mix in a decent level of organic matter every year...

How to improve clay soils:

Begin by digging your soil in the autumn- when it's moderately dry but still easy to work with. During winter and spring, the soil is often too wet, and during summer, too hard. Autumn is most definitely the best time to work with clay-based soil. In terms of planting new/young plants, however, stick to springtime, as even the toughest plants may not be able to survive in the harsh winter weather.

Another time is to not over-work the soil when you're digging. Try lifting bigger clumps of soil to the surface where they can be broken down by the weather over winter.

In terms of improving the soil, however, the best thing you can do is to apply plenty of organic matter- i.e., rotted manure or compost. If you're able to mix it in, then we highly recommend doing so. If not, then sprinkle a decent layer of matter of surface of the soil and allow it to mix in naturally over time. Organic matter can be used as a mulch for your plants, to retain as much moisture as possible and prevent cracking in hot weather.

Do not add any sand to your clay-based soil, as you'll only make it worse. We recommend sticking to organic matter and ensuring you pick the right plants for the soil type- if you're unsure, please don't hesitate to get in touch with our team!

Another tip for clay soils is to use raised beds to improve drainage. Try to avoid walking on clay soil, too, as this will only clamp the soil together even more and make it harder to work with.

How to improve sandy soils:

Once again, the key to improving your sandy soil is to add in lots of organic matter. This will not only bring the soil together, but will improve its ability to absorb and retain water/nutrients. We recommend doing this in the spring or autumn.

We also advise applying mulch around the base of your plants. You can use slate chips, gravel, or pebbles, but it's always possible to just stick with a lovely thick layer of organic matter. Either way, apply your mulch at the beginning of spring whilst the soil is moist and beginning to warm up.

How to improve silt soils:

The biggest risk with silt soils is compaction. That's why we cannot stress enough the importance of digging in organic matter every year. This will improve the soil's structure and help the plants to absorb as much nutrients as they can.
It's also very important to ensure you avoid walking on silt soils, where possible, as you would do with clay. This is because it's already at risk of compacting, and walking on the soil can make it even worse. A good tip for this is to lay wooden boards on the ground first before walking on- this will help distribute the weight evenly.